070823 Bamford

Overview - Two new partners from the UKC listings, and a day that turned unimaginably hot very quickly. I had the usual two litres of water with me, but that'd disappeared by the time we got to Auricle - I'd started climbing with my shirt (and hat!) on with the acknowledgement that if I didn't I would get severely burnt! I had to stop at the Spar in Hathersage to pour a 1.5l bottle of water into me before driving home, as both my head and muscles were complaining from overwork and dehydration! Overall, a brilliant day, and some great photos. I started with some quick ticking on the smaller buttresses right of Gun Buttress, but only the notables are included here.

Green Parrot (VS 5b / V1):

Solo - Butch is definitely right... Not what you'd normally class as a warm-up, but I was there and bored. The holds/moves are not quite what they seem, hence is a tad harder than expected, but the sit-start (V3) from the right extends the original problem into a proper problem!

Long John (1* HVS 5b):

Solo - The holds on this one are better than on Green Parrot, but the excitement continues a little longer (and higher!). My advice, traverse in from the corner on the left. Keep searching for the holds (including just around the arete), and the jugs will appear...

Gangway (S 4a):

Solo - Okay, now we drop back to a sensible warm-up. This is the best of the selection of low-graders near Gun Buttress, if unfortunately short (but heck, it's grit...)

Jumping Jack Longland (1* E3 5c):

Second - Due to the overhanging fun we'd already been having, and the attempt to still (sort of) claim Auricle as an onsight, I opted for the direct finish after Dave led Auricle. The top out would be terrifying due to the lack of gear (and holds on top), but the large part of Auricle felt remarkable easy - the crux holds are much more positive than they would first appear.

Bamford Rib (2* HVS 5a):

Led - Done because it was the only HVS in the vacinity I didn't do last time, and the bottom section certainly doesn't have anything to particularly recommend it, but the top section, right from the holly is another of those step-out-into-space moves. Worthwhile, a soft touch, and nowhere near as good as its neighbours. Mick seconded.

Bamford Wall (2* S 4a):

Solo - Now who hid this little gem there? Excellent severe, gear's probably all there, and the climbing is flake-tastic. I ran back down to do the Buttress, the S just right, but got slightly disappointed after the Wall being so nice. I'd originally thought that combining the crescent flake of Wall with the rising traverse into Buttress would be even better. I'm wrong, stick to the original!

Gargolye Flake (3* VS 4c):

Solo - Wow. Simply wow. Sorry, I mean WOW! There are very few climbs in the Peak that are simply out there for atmosphere, and this has bucket loads. Ignore the starting arete, just get passed it. The chunky flake gives a good few moves, after which you get to jugs, and perhaps one of the best positions to hold and enjoy yourself on rock, suspended above Ladybower. Soloing probably exaggerates the effect, but Chequer's Buttress now has competition for my favourite route anywhere.

Wrinkle Wall (3* VS 4c):

Solo - The now standard solo end to the day. It felt remarkably awkward and slightly hard this time 'round, but I'll put that down to tiredness, dehydration, and the exhileration of the previous route. Unfortunately, however good Wrinkle Wall is, it unfortunately gets beaten hands-down as the best mid-grade route of the crag.